Bogotà

2640 Metres above sea-level.

... and that is why, despite being right next to the equator, it is rather chilly here. I must say, I was rather quick to adopt the shorts and sandals, but they shall now remain a distant memory for there are very few warm places I plan on going to. The winter clothes have come out from the dark depths of my bag (where I had hoped they would stay a bit longer) to keep me from being cold up here in the mountains for the next few months.

Mind you, my threshold for cold is probably not what it used to be. It seems to have evolved over the last months, which is why I feel I must clarify when I say "cold". Durring the day, we can expect temperatures reaching up to 20 degrees, and down to maybe about 10 at night. Hardly a freezing Brittish winter,but I really got used to 35 degrees with humidity. Nonetheless, I have not let the brisk temperatures keep me from exploring this beautiful city.

I have been staying in a hostel that I have been told is in one of the safest places in the country, which is nice to know, but I am still not going to take and chances. The hostel is a building marked with nothing more than a painting of a duck-billed platypus next to the door. I think this was done initially so people would not know it was a hostel - an extra security measure, which is always welcom - but it now seems that all of Bogotà knows of it.

The "cold" is also high-lighted by the missing window panes. This can make for some pretty chilly nights, followed by mornings with cold showers. The hostel boasts hot water, but I have yet to witness it. One of the employees told us there was a trick to getting hot water from a tap with only one working knob, so we asked him to show us how.

On the way to the nearest bathroom, he was modestly telling us that Bogota had one of the best irrigation systems in the world, no less. Still, I was ready to listen to any old non-sense provided he could show me how to have a hot shower.

He got the water flowing by turning the knob very slowly. His hand went under the current to test the tempurature. The contact with the flow brought a smile to his face, and he informs us that the water is now hot. The trick was simply to turn the knob slowly.

The news pleased me greatly nd made me want to dest it for myself. I was distraught when the ice streaming from the shower burned my fingers, but he seemed so pleased with himself for having been able to provide "hot" water that I could not bring myself to tell him that I might die from hypothermia if I were to stand under there.

Apparently this is something I will have to get used to, especially if I make it to Bolivia. Hot water is rarely available, even in the higher altitudes due to the crippling poverty of the country. Not exactly a pleasant prospect, but I am sure I will get used to it.


When walking around the city, the first thing I noticed was a beautiful building on top of a mountain peak over-looking the city with a cable-car leading up to it. This church of Monerate is visible from almost everywhere in the city, and would serve as my North Star whenever I got lost, because it was even illuminated at night. Obviously, I had to go visit it, and did so on my first day in the city.

Once at the top, there is a view of the city, which is frankly not very nice. I was shocked to see that the city is rather ugly from above, when it is so beautiful in the streets. The view is much nicer on the other side of the mountain of a forest in a valley. The church itself is very beautiful, and I got there just when they started having a mass. I find these deadly boring when I can understand what they are saying, so I did not stay very long to witness this.

There are also many museums in the Bogotà. I have visited a few, ranging from really nice, to so boring that I left before seeing most of it. The gold museum, which I was told was "un-missable", was definately missable. I stayed there no more than five mintues, before leaving (thank god it was free). The police museum (which also sounded like it should have been a total flop) turned out to be one of the best experiences I have had in Bogotà.

I showed up to the museum, and door-man asked me where I was from, if I speak Spanish, how I had heard of the museum, etc. I explained to him that I had heard very good things about the museum, and he asked me to sit down, while he went to fetch me an English speaking guide. The guide was a 19 year old currently serving his military service. It was really interesting talking to him about Colombia while we walked around the museum. I am glad I am not Colombian, though, becuase he is now having a "restful" time as they work him 12 hours a day, 6 days a week. Normally, he works 15-17 hours per day.

At the end of the tour, he took me to see his major, who is the officer with the most years of service in all of Colombia. Apparently the major had requested to talk to me, which I made me feel somewhat nervous, but he was so friendly that I quickly felt at ease. He told me how he loved to meet people from foreign countries, especially the French, seeing as it was a Frenchman who was responsable for setting up the police in Colombia. When he was done complimenting me for being French, he gave me a chocolate, and sent me on my way with an enormous smile. I love this country.